Golf R , S2000 supercharged and E30 with S52 swap comparison

Some of you may have figured out... I'm a car guy. I just love cars. I work on them and fix them up to my tastes.

This blog has been dedicated to my Golf R but I also have a 2003 S2000 with a Comptech supercharger and just picked up a 1987 E30 with a S52 swap which is the same powerplant as a E36 M3.

My buddy stopped by and wanted a ride so it become a demo test drive of all the cars and myself explaining to him what I like and dislike about each one.

Each of these cars are beasts in their own rights and each generation are considered one of the top cars of the times. Bimmers always been self labeled as The Ultimate Driving Machine for a reason. The S2000 had the highest horsepower liter car for many years and not many this date had a 9000 RPM redline!!!  Can you say VVVTTTAAAAAAC???!!!!!! The MK7 Golf R is the fastest Vdub ever produced from the factory until the next Golf R400 comes but that's a different story.

E30

• S52 M3 drivetrain (240hp to flywheel)
• 2600 pounds approximately
• Rear wheel drive
• 5 speed manual transmission
• Stock suspension w 205/55/15 Dunlop summer tires
• Very peppy to pretty darn quick
• Linear powerband
• Sits high in seat and higher floor than other cars. 
• Plenty of space all around. Think a green house.
• Full of options for a 80s car but primitive to the 21st century
• Installed Z3 steering rack so very responsive, almost twitchy
• Takes turns very well but has lots of body roll
• Predictable in the turns. Easy car to drive 
• Ok brakes. I'm sure great for the time

S2000

• AP1 2.0 liter (240hp to flywheel but low boost supercharger adds 80hp)
• 2750 pounds
• Rear wheel drive
• 6 speed manual transmission
• Coilover w 255/45/17 Federal RZR summer tires
• No bottom end torque but when  in VTEC...Watch out!!!
• Supercharger works best in high RPMs as it's a linear power delivery as is stock motor
• Sits very low to floor like being part of the ground. Soft top up has huge blind spots
• Can feel claustrophobic. 2 seat roadster with literally no wiggle room. Think jet cockpit
• No options for the time besides a hardtop and accessories. No packages until the AP2 CR came
• Electric steering but very very very responsive. Did I forget to mention quick too?
• Takes turns like "being on rails"
• Can lose it in twisties due to snap oversteer. Not for a noob driver
• Great brakes for the time. Car is so light and low that big brakes for the streets aren't necessary

Golf R

• 2.0 liter turbo (290hp to flywheel but JB1 adds 45hp)
• 3340 pounds
• All Wheel Drive - Haldex meaning front wheel drive most of the time until traction loss
• 6 speed dual clutch automatic
• Stock suspension w 225/45/18 Dunlop summer tires
• Peak torque comes at 1500 rpm. Still has some turbo lag but not much.
• Pulls you in your seat but doesn't feel fast but it is fast. Think time warp
• Sits comfortably with clear visibility throughout.
• Back seats have plent of room
• Electric steering but progressive and responsive
• Takes turns well but must turn off nanny settings to a degree
• Being front wheel drive bias it understeers you more confident you won't spin out
• Awesome braking. Some feel it's too grabby but it gives high confidence on stopping power

Conclusion

The E30 is the most "raw" car of the three.  There's no push start, climate control, traction control but did have ABS for it's day. It's a box on wheels.  Handles great and has more potential to handle and go even faster. This car is a sleeper. It can get you in trouble when you want trouble. Decent daily driver and weekend warrior at this level.

The S2000 is no box but it's noisy. Adding the supercharger and the Invidia dual exhaust it makes it even more so. I can't order food at the drive thru easily without killing the motor. Rev it past 6k and it's loud but you know, it's sweet at the same time. It's salty sweet. People think you want to race but I know this car even boosted is no straight line killer. It's a track star and canyon carver. It's a car that you can get yourself killed if you're not paying attention like playing with a sharp blade. I would consider this as a part time driver not a daily unless you want to be always on high alert. I feel like I'm working out at the gym when driving this car.

The R the 21st century box on wheels. Some have joked to me it's a mini mini van. Plenty of luxury items like seat heaters and back up camera but why no memory seats? Moonroof may be a good option for some people but you won't get it in North America. It doesn't have a linear power band as the other cars but it's not that crazy high peak torque that jerks you around and beats you up like my old Evo X. I have to say this is one of the best daily drivers I've owned. Fast when you need it to be, shifts fast and you don't need to think about it unless you want to go full manual mode, and keeps my body in that Zen state (fair quiet) until I want to hit the canyons or go all out launch mode. It has a understeer bias but reducing the nanny sensors helps make it a little tossable. It's a heavy car so tossing it isn't that easy but the turbo and haldex does it thing.

These three cars are totally different animals but in the end all give you that Quagmire "giggity" feeling. Pick your poison and enjoy.

I wanted to add that my buddy felt the E30 was great for what it is and even though I took the same corner faster in the R it was so refined that the S2000 felt faster. Our senses can fool us.

Thanks for reading. Feel free to post comments questions.

My DIY splitter / lip for the R. Cheap mod!

Today I made my own splitter.

I used my old Kerscher lip as a template to cut out some 1/4 inch ABS sheeting.

Used my heat gun to make the curve that the R has then used some double tape and screws to mount it.

I think it came out great.

Video has a close up of the curve and explanation why I had to make a curve.

Solo dyno runs today at AU Tuning. BK Motorsports Tuning Box dyno testing

This morning I got ready and took my sons with me to get the R dyno tested at AU Tuning.

I had 3 runs done:

baseline using the Tuning Box relay
medium settings (yellow light over P) no red or green lights at + and -
max settings (red light over P) max red lights over + light

this video explains the modes:

Dyno sheet from today's BK Motorsports Tuning Box runs. stock baseline is 260whp 271tq and with the box set to 'max' it put down 294whp 304tq. The only bolt on is Apr intake. I used pump 91 octane So Cal gas. It was 59 degrees this morning.

Graph shows both baseline, "mid settings" , and "max settings"

max run video below 

BK Tuning Box piggy back install - round 2

I had an wiring harness issue that caused a CEL. BK sent me a harness right away but I was busy with other mods, cars, family etc.

It was a nice summer like day in So Cal today that allowed me to spend some time to get it installed. I'm happy to say no check engine lights.

I'm going to have the R dynoed at the same place where I had the JB1 tested. This time I should be easily able to get a baseline due to just swapping that little interface instead in the car.

Stay "tuned" all for Saturday, February 13th!!!

Not hella flush but just plain ole flush with wheel spacers - watch lug bolt length!!!!

I added some 10mm spacers to my rear wheels today. I didn't like the inward look especially since my fronts were closer to flush.

I had tried my 15mm spacers from my oem flush set up but it was just a tad too much. The 10mm is perfect.

One thing I learned is OZ wheels use ball lug bolts like oem unlike cone which are generally used in the aftermarket industry. Another thing that was REALLY important to know is that the hub for OZ are thicker than oem. I had maybe 2mm of threading using extended bolts (pic below).

The bolt on the left is already extended but I had to be even longer ones to be safe!

Another tip is to always torque them down then in about a week retorque them.

Also check out my youtube channel with details about this set up.

extended bolt but still too short

much better and safer!!!

much better!!!!!

SuperPro rear sway bar installed!!!!!! Kill that understeer

I received a SuperPro rear sway bar from a group buy for $225 shipped. It came all the way from Down Under.

RSB is installed. I haven't tested it out yet but i'm sure it'll be a nice difference.

below are some comparative pics vs stock.

You'll need triple square bits which I got from Amazon.  I didn't drop the exhaust as another member did. It just took me a few minutes to get the rsb out and the new one back in.

video had a short summary of what to do.

BK Motorsports TuningBox installation and comparo to Burger Tuning JB1

After a couple weeks of myself and my family getting sick and also just getting plain lazy from the Thanksgiving holiday I'm back baby!!!!

I just removed the Burger Tuning JB1 so I could start testing out BK Motorsports TuningBox. Others have stated and I agree that it's manufactured by someone else and getting labeled under BK. I can't tell you yet if the tuning map itself is the same or not. I'll check with BK on that.

Here's some videos of the wiring comparison, where the TuningBox connects to and how you make your adjustments.

Stay "tuned" for my butt dyno opinions versus JB1.

Dyno tests have been completed!!! Tuning Box put of 30whp. JB1 substantially more.

I'm a tune tester!!!!

I'm going to be testing a piggy back tuner called TuningBox on my R soon. It'll be dynoed on the same dyno as the JB1 I have. I'm curious on my butt dyno results and overall driveability. Stay "tuned" pun intended.

So far it appears that the TuningBox is a multi-platform type of item meaning it can fit several cars depending on the configuration. 

There are 3 specific plugs for the piggyback which reminds me of the Neuspeed product.

check out the unboxing video for details:

more general info here: http://bk-tuningbox.com/

They'll be more videos, dyno charts, etc.

Again..stay tuned.

How did fingerprints get in my headlight housing?!!? AND IT'S POINTING WEIRD!!! UPDATED WITH VIDEO

So as you know I'm the original owner of my Golf R.

I wanted to change the cornering lights from the yellow shade to white to match the HIDs from the headlights. Well I bought a cheap pair (under $2 on ebay) and one was bad. I looked how it lit up and then I discovered the fingerprints! I wore rubber gloves but in order to put your paws in that reflector there are only 2 ways:

When assembling the housing or if for some reason you decide to stick a finger in the bulb opening for whatever nonsensical reason.

I wore gloves by the way so even if I had some weird thought to "finger" my headlight it wouldn't do that.

Well crap! I thought it as my imagination that it was also pointing too high until I tested it tonight in a dark business park! Horrible QA on the lights. If it wasn't the manufacturer who did this then why would the dealership do it? Makes no sense but at the same time explains how the fingerprints got there like they tried to do something with that corner light. I know that the headlight points a little higher on the left as well. 

Check out my video showing the light difference!

Pics of DYNO day and rolling shots GTI

Dyno Day for GTI's and little ole me....

This morning we did a meet up /dyno day where 6 out of 7 MK7s were GTIs and myself the lonely R. As you may know I'm using the Burger Tuning JB1 "stage 1" piggy back and an APR intake. No other power mods.

The rest of the crew were all stage 2 versions of Revo, Eurodyne, Apr and Giac.

I did a respectable 309hp and 339 lbs tq at the front wheels. It was run like this because unless you have a roller type of dyno and the right settings, it won't run right. I think I like 2 wheel drive mode only since it's a head to head with the little brother GTI. 

All in all for $400 and getting 45hp, it's not a bad mod. I'm planning on tweaking it with Map 6 to get better boosting.

Gotz me some new shoes

I picked up some 18x8 OZ Ultraleggera in 18x8 +45 wheels the other day. It was used set and the I got them for a really good price. Buying wheel can be risky. You really have to check for bends and cracks. If they have them they will be a safety issue or cannot ever be balanced right having shakes and shimmies while driving.

There was some curbage but I sanded them down and used an old can of gunmetal spraypaint. it wasn't perfect but you wouldn't be able to tell unless you really look at it.

curbed

more curbage

tire was replaced so i didn't care to mask it

much better!

Without further ado...

Pedal Box your way to full throttle!

Picked up a PedalBox throttle booster and installed it.

It wasn't too hard disconnecting the harness and connecting the unit but I cheated and read someone's post with pics. If you don't install it securely you'll get Christmas lights in your dash and it'll run like crap.

It looks exactly like the Remus Responder down to the shape and lights. I'm going to say one is a relabel.

I think overall the pro is if you don't want an ecu tune and no warranty hassles this is a nice feature.

Don't put it in sport plus in bumper to bumper traffic. You will probably plow into another car or wall like you see on TV.

And don't leave it on for anybody borrowing your car. Seriously here.

My video review below

Trying to avoid Johnny Law with the Cravenspeed front license plate holder and custom CA black plates

I've had my personalized plates for a few years and on 3 cars.

I found out earlier this year that DMV approved the 1960's style legacy plates so I placed my order.

click here for DMV info

Exactly 3 months later they arrived.

I hate drilled holes in bumpers so I made sure that the dealer didn't touch it.

I got a good deal on a cravenspeed plate holder from a forum member and it was new in box.

Installation was simple and looks to be a quality piece. the only thing is it would look better towards the center a little more but check out my video for my explanation.

Comfort as it should have came from Germany! - Coding for remote windows open and close and reverse mirror drop

I purchased a Ross-Tech micro-can cable to do VCDS updates or VW coding.

I did the coding for remote windows open and close and reverse mirror drop.

It's not to difficult but you need to be patient and do each step EXACTLY as stated. If not you can do something bad and brick your module which only the dealer can restore.

Check out my videos for a demo of the coding.

micro-can interface and 034 dogbone insert

Give a dog a 034 dogbone insert

I picked up this second hand from another R owner because he had what they called the "mystery part".

Anyhow the point of this insert is to firm up things such as shifts. Here's what their site says:

The 034Motorsport Billet Aluminum MQB Dogbone Mount Insert for MkVII Volkswagen Golf/GTI/R & 8V Audi A3/S3 is designed to fill the large void in the factory dogbone mount, and limit drivetrain movement without sacrificing ride quality or introducing excessive additional noise, vibration, or harshness into the cabin. 

By filling the void in the factory mount, this insert eliminates the associated slop to ensure that you experience crisper shifts and a smoother driving experience. Unlike polyurethane insert options on the market, this billet aluminum part will not pack and wear over time, and guarantees long-lasting performance.

So installation was a breeze because I had my trusty Milwaukee impact gun. I've learned over the years that proper tools make the difference.

Anyways so far I'm getting vibration at idle. Other Golf owners stated there was either some to none but as you can see from 034's site it says it won't bring "excessive" nvh.

So after starting the car in the morning and having a cold start then driving warmed up I would say it's a nice mod but you will have vibration at idle and some during the lower rpms. The upside is there is a nice crispness with shifting and things are tighter. If you are modding your car with suspension mods, noisier but stickier tires, louder exhaust, intake, downpipe, etc... I think you'll like it. If you just want simple mods and a stockish car I say you may want to pass. However since it's $50 and you can sell it for $35 shipped any day if you don't like it...give it a try.

Here's my video review

I LOVE my impact gun

Looks nice don't it?

Suck it up / suck it in with the APR Carbonio cold air/ ram Intake!!!!

I told myself to reduce my modding addiction but dammit, these deals are too good to pass!

I decided to pick up a used APR intake for a really good deal. I'm honestly not a CF guy but since I ended up with a cf lip I'll just suck it up.

It did have a few nicks on it but nothing to complain about and my car isn't for show so I'm fine with it.

Installing the intake took about 15 minutes maybe more because I was just taking my sweet time.

CF goodness

One thing I read about and just noticed too is that you can't rev the R like other cars. It stops below 4000 rpm. I guess that's a good thing for some people...including me.

video is just a quick run showing the sound of the intake. It seems to spool up faster. At least that's what my butt dyno tells me.

Guard your grill!

Volkswagen for whatever reason didn't think that a rock could go through the center bumper grill and hit the AC condenser lines. I've read reports of this happening to several people in the VW and Audi forums. Since this wasn't considered a factory defect, owners who had this problem had to pay out of pocket for it in the range of $1000 or use their auto insurance policy claim and pay the deductible. If you look at the coolers in the side bumpers they put a nice plastic grill covering those lines but not anywhere in the large center area.

Damaged AC condenser. Pic courtesy of Bradd K.

Nicely protected side coolers

I swear a 2x4 could get in that area. I purchased a Kerscher carbon fiber front splitter (next blog how to) so I decided to do the grill mod. I went to Lowes and picked up what is called lath. It's galvanized steel mesh sheeting used for stucco applications. I chose galvanized for rust prevention.

TOOLS NEEDED

• T25 torx bit - use a rachet, screwdriver or some sort of handle
• Jack + ramps or jack stands - You could work on it from the ground but you won't have much space underneath
• bucket or clamp - used to capture liquid from headlight washers or pinch it off.  
• zip ties - I used long ones. easier to run them through existing openings. You can use short ones and extend them but more work.
• wire cutter, heavy duty scissors, tin snips, or dremel to cut through your choice of mesh.
• spray paint - I used Plastidip because I had leftover and it's great adhesion ability. P

TIME TO ALLOT - 1 to 2 hours depending how fast you can unscrew and screw everything.


To remove the bumper you will need a T25 torx bit. It's best to get the car on ramps or jack stands in the front. If you use jack stands you'll also have more room to get to the bolts in the fender well or you can turn the wheels on the ramps (BE CAREFUL DOING THAT).

There are 2 on top of the grill then you will pull the grill off.

2 screws on top edges

yanks straight up!

3 screws on each side under the fender. 2 on top and 1 on bottom

you can see the middle and bottom bolt here

this shows the top and middle bolt hole. top holds bumper to fender

7 screws on the bottom to remove the undercover (not pictured)


You need to pry off the bumpers from the side with some force. The front part of the bumper are held by clips that you simply slide it forward. Once you do you will see the headlight washer lines. Either pinch them with something or have a bucket ready because once you remove the hose, ALL the fluids will come rushing out. Ask me how I know this? The hose is easily removed by squeezing the blue buttons. Very easy.

headlight washer hose. you simply remove it.

pop the bumper off. you'll need to put a good amount of force

squeeze the blue bottons to remove from headlight washers. 

have a container ready or pinch off the line!

Going back to the mesh it cost $6 plus tax. It's a large sheet 26x97 inches I believe. I cut out a 44x9 inch rectangle. I'd suggest wearing thick gloves when cutting. I didn't and cut up my fingers. I painted it using my leftover Plastidip in black. I like that product since it doesn't need any form of primer to hold on too.  You can use whichever paint you like. You can also buy other types of grills if you prefer a different look.

Trim to fit then start zipping up. zip ties are very strong and used even to hold up bumpers. I love zip ties!


I used only long zip ties around the plastic area to hold down the grill. Some spots closes to the bottom corner of the grill I used openings that were 3-4 inches apart so I slid it down one side then used a pick to grab it out the other hole. You can see in the pic I just covered all the corners just to hold it down.

Trimmed mesh and ready to cut the zip ties

Install everything in reverse order...

You can see the final product and the oem grill in the side opening which VAG should have put there in the first place.

So for a Total of under $10 I have somewhat good protection. I'd guestimate my odds of getting through and damaging my condenser is are way way lower than without!!!!